Geoffrey B. Small EV8J05 Handmade Extended Length Single-Breasted 3 Button Jacket – LABELS

This super limited edition GBS Evolution VIII EV8J05 jacket is one of only seven handmade pieces worldwide, with just one created exclusively for LABELS, representing the Benelux and Northern Europe. The design is a slightly elongated “extensionism” version of a classic 3-button, single-breasted notch lapel jacket. It is crafted from a completely natural, chemical-free wool yarn sourced from Alpagota sheep in Italy’s Alpago Valley, near Belluno. The fabric is a historical reproduction twill originally created by Franciscan monks in the 13th century and was handwoven on 18th-century wooden looms by Tessitura La Colombina in Badoere di Morgano, requiring over two days to produce enough cloth for this single piece. The luxurious viscosa jacquard and stripe weave lining was designed by Ezio Ghiringhelli in Varese and hand-dyed at the GBS Superworkrooms in Cavarzere Venezia, taking over 10 hours to achieve its unique dark color, patina, and hardy texture.

The jacket features hand-padstitched old-fashioned canvas horsehair front and collar interfacings, with over 1,000 invisible stitches giving the lapels and collar their natural roll. Details include surgeon’s sleeve cuffs with real working buttonholes, hand-cut besom, flap, and welt pockets, and 2.5 cm seam allowances on major seams, allowing for alterations of up to one full size larger. Real mottled horn buttons, custom-made by Claudio and Cinzia Fontana in Parma, add sophistication, along with ten hand-stitched buttonholes crafted with pure silk Bozzolo Reale Milano Seta threads, requiring 12–15 minutes each to complete.

The jacket also features a pure silk hand-dyed label by Mion SpA in Torreglia, the first in the luxury industry to eliminate plastic polyester yarns, sewn entirely by hand with silk threads. Variations in color and density reflect the artisanal techniques used. Professional cleaning or gentle handwashing in cold water is recommended, avoiding machine washing or drying.