Geoffrey B. Small EV8J06 Handmade Single Breasted 6-Buttons Central, Single Vent Waistcoat – LABELS

This super limited edition GBS Evolution VIII EV8J06 waistcoat is one of only three handmade pieces in the world, with just one created exclusively for LABELS, representing the Benelux and Northern Europe. It is based on a slightly elongated “extensionism” version of a classic 19th-century waistcoat pattern from extensive tailoring research. The fabric is crafted from chemical-free wool yarns sourced from Alpagota sheep in Italy’s Alpago Valley, near Belluno, and handwoven into a historical reproduction twill originally created by Franciscan monks in the 13th century. This fabric was woven on 18th-century wooden looms by Tessitura La Colombina in Badoere di Morgano, taking over 1.5 days to produce enough cloth for a single piece. The luxurious viscosa jacquard and stripe weave lining, designed by Ezio Ghiringhelli in Varese, was hand-dyed in the GBS Superworkrooms in Cavarzere Venezia, requiring over 10 hours of work to achieve its unique dark color, patina, and durable texture.

The waistcoat features a fully-lined, clean-finished interior with patchwork construction, hand-cut besom flap pockets, and generous 2.5 cm seam allowances on major seams for size adjustments up to one full size larger. Real mottled horn buttons, crafted by Claudio and Cinzia Fontana in Parma, and six hand-stitched buttonholes made with pure silk Bozzolo Reale Milano Seta threads, reflect exceptional craftsmanship, with each buttonhole requiring 12–15 minutes to complete.

A hand-dyed pure silk label by Mion SpA in Torreglia, the first in the luxury industry to eliminate plastic polyester yarns, is sewn entirely by hand with silk threads. Variations in color and density are intentional, reflecting artisanal techniques. Professional cleaning or gentle handwashing in cold water is recommended, avoiding machine washing or drying.